Marchesa Luisa Casati was a legend throughout Europe at the beginning of the 20th century, due to her appearance. She had a thick blaze of flame-coloured hair that crowned her pale, almost cadaverously white face, and her large green eyes were exaggerated with immense false lashes and surrounding rings of black kohl, while droplets of poisonous belladonna made them glitter like emeralds.
Peter Philips, Global Creative Director of CHANEL Make-up, found inspiration in the Marchesa’s look for the CHANEL Cruise 2009-10 show. Using the fall make-up collection, Venise by CHANEL, he created a make-up look that was round, emphasizing the eyes and cheeks so as to create an impression of softness and balance.
ROUND SMOKY EYES WITH A WET LOOK
For the eye make-up, Philips used the new exclusive creation from the fall 2009 make-up collection, Eye Gloss. This product is composed of four iconic Chanel shades, such as Noir and Rouge Noir. The texture of Eye Gloss works perfectly in creating the make-up effect Philips was looking for: round smokey eyes with a wet feel and a decadent style.
The eyelid was lacquered starting at the rim of the eyelashes with a strong concentration of pigments and colour, then gradually shading off to create a smoky effect at the crease, before being blurred to a circle towards the outer part of the eye. The same technique was applied to the lower eyelid.
So as to echo the roundness of the eye make-up, Philips also worked on the roundness of the cheeks. He applied a slight touch of Joues Contraste Fresque (an extremely pale peachy pink) thus playing upon the round effect of the cheeks, but also on the natural contrast with the eyes.
Rouge Allure Mythic was used to create a natural nude lip, leaving the emphasis on the eyes.